in Monster RCs, Thanks for confirming you know your electronics Lea. But here's something that blows me away, there's a red and green LED on the ESC (not sure of their purpose to be honest). I know I posted in the offroad forum (because I swap this same ESC, Motor, & Batt from a converted RedCat Tsunami and this vehicle) its currently in a converted (originally nitro) HPI RS4 EVO 3 4wd touring on road car. But I think I will order that lipo i posted. In fact changes of the stator and the copper wire made it possible to create a brushless motor with almost 65% efficiency at 90W. ... brushless motor is prohibited and will void your warranty. A brushless is a similar circuit but using 6 (3 of each). Himax Brushless motors are manufactured to high standards for the discerning modeler. last time i had this problem the esc wasnt getting the signals right and it wasnt commutating right. General Functions. If you've got powerpoint you should be able to fire this one up... http://www.sherlock.me.uk/H-Bridge.pptx, Edit: Just popped up a couple of slides from a presentation I did last year that show how an H-bridge works on a basic level. The effect is the same as full throttle position even if you don’t turn throttle … Don't get to hung up on exact readings as they very a bit. thanks, its only $10 more and bumps me up in 50c constant and 100c burst. It's in the manual for my mtroniks RV-12, I'll try find one online. in Monster RCs, By Anyway, we've digressed somewhat and it's been interesting, but going slightly back on topic, what are the red/green LEDs on my ESC trying to tell me, they seem to operate rather randomly !!?? I upgraded to a brushless 480 and 40 amp esc on my super cub and when trying to fly on the stock 15C battery it would spin up and then the throttle would cut back to about 1/2. The motor is positioned in the rear of the trimmer to provide the best combination of power, balance and maneuverability. ... out of the blue this morning the motor started intermittently cutting out for just a second at a time. it runs flawlessly. Instructions. Brushless DC motors are smaller and weigh less than equivalent DC (Brushed) motors, but they require a more complex speed control circuit. I've just had the exact same thing with a MSRV12 ESC from the same range. thank you. The largest prop is intended for 3D flight where full-throttle is used intermittently. It's not all that uncommon to have to reverse polarity on the motor. I also found I couldn't get the ESC to go into setup mode either (pressing the button for 1 second). Or would it be the bearing getting out of sync and vibrating a bunch at high rpm - slowing the motor so the timing is way off then (even tho its a sensor motor?). Actual performance may vary depending on battery and flight conditions. So rang modelsport cos I thought I'd got a duffer. Recently upgraded Traxxas M41 boat to leopard 4082 X2 2200Kv with Seaking ESC 180A running 6S. Batteries are 5000MAh 50C in series. I have tried adjusting the timing manually on the motor and even tho it make a considerable difference in power/torque it has no effect on the problem I am having. but would it loose all rpm? So do you think this is a problem with the esc? BTW - your link appears corrupt - maybe useful if it's corrected :). Not necessarily in the sense of raw continuous power, but in the demands they make on an ever changing throttle value. Ahhh I forgot about that aspect - if it's a 2000mAh NiMH battery then it's going to struggle to provide more than 20A at best. Not long now until testing with a separate receiver pack.... but I will be frustrated if this ESC doesn't work with a 2000mAh bat, seems ridiculous to me! in General RC, By By   You cannot paste images directly. full throttle during a flight, the hotter your motor will become. LeaUK, July 6, 2010 in General - Electric, Just purchased a Smacker for my boy and after having lots of fun this weekend building it I'm a little disappointed with the ESC performance to be honest or perhaps there. I pulled off the road and after letting it sit for a while, it seemed to be running normally again. WARNING: This is an extremely powerful brushless motor system. Ty for the quick response:-), but when this happens the motor spins freely. Tingting44, October 28, 2020 Didn't stall it for long as I'd take the enamel off the windings! Configurable motor temperature protection range. It's almost definitely throttle bias causing the issue (as several on here have also mentioned) and interesting that MS have seen this before, I reckon Joe's experience is spot on and that the ESC has range 0-200 (I've normalised to 8bit for example) but if the tx provides >200 then it shuts down. Different cars have different layouts so there'll never be a 'one direction fits all' theme to it. ... DO NOT hold the vehicle in the air and run it up to full throttle. What does the motor do when you take it out of the car and power it up. IT would pay to upgrade the battery, even to something like a Vapextech, with double the Mah, wont cost the earth and will improve run times by a huge amount, and may eve ncure your issue. in Scale Crawlers, By Not quiet unfortunately, seems like this 'poor' ESC has rather a 'following': http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/49561-help-mtronics-viper-eco-20/page__st__15__gopid__810349#entry810349. will not work with hub motors or brushless motors, if your motor has more than 2 wires coming from it this wont fit. You'll find a brushed motor uses 4 fets - two N, two P in an H-bridge. Thank you for any help you have to offer. It appears the motor can’t handle the 3S lipo battery and it’s only a 2S type motor even though the ESC is 2S-3S capable. Is it getting hot at all? The battery might be alright, fully charged with indicators showing full capacity; however, the throttle has no effect, nor does the pedal assist. E-Brakes. Maybe it is a little clever and it's cutting out at high current (even though it's notoriously difficult to measure high currents) - if that's the case then it's not up to the job with the motor being used. this could fry both your esc and motor if thats the case. Racing mini-quads ask a lot from their power systems. Not for the same ESC, but all the low-end mtroniks ones use the same controllers. Other times it will end up slowing down and squealing. ... * Travel set to -100 at throttle OFF, +100 at throttle FULL ... Motor starts but cuts out as throttle is advanced *Speed Controller not set properly: To protect your battery, your speed controller has settings for "Auto Cut… The speed limit is overwritten by the throttle, so you will go as fast as you want. The wise chap at modelsport suggested switching the servo reverse switch for channel 2 on the transmitter, that sometimes cures the setup mode issue. ... 5v signal back is full speed. Allow for adequate cooling between bursts. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sn/biggrin.gif, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14966, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...n/confused.gif. This setting doesn’t imply that the maximum speed with the throttle is 40km/u. At WOT (wide open throttle) full on, voltage should read around 4.25 vdc. Even leaving the motor in the car and throttling it with the tires off the ground (no real load) it revs high and fast consistently. Prop is copper 42mm x 63mm. Check your brake motor inhibitor So i will chance a cheap pack. It's similar to the low voltage cutoff if you accidentally leave lipo mode on and try to use a nimh battery, however it still happens in nimh mode on the ESC. supersavage, 53 minutes ago I could hear fuel being dumped into the carb, but there was no ignition. NOTE: All data measured at full throttle. Brushless DC motors are used in most drones and they typically have 3 wires instead of 2. The LED flashing pattern indicates the fault sources. If you've got powerpoint you should be able to fire this one up... http://www.sherlock....k/H-Bridge.pptx.   Pasted as rich text. Thanks guys, very useful info and I didn't realise about the 'C' rating - and I've been in the electronics design industry for 15 years! This indicates that the voltage has dipped significantly such the ESC has reset and thinks it's just switched on again and gone into learning mode. Edit: Just popped up a couple of slides from a presentation I did last year that show how an H-bridge works on a basic level. But perhaps there's a rule of thumb here? Welcome to the board. Obviously in 99.99% of applications you use transistors and not physical switches! The measured graph with its efficiency indicated, that it must be possible to get more power out of this design. It was hard to simulate when the car is not moving since it only happens under full load. and longer life.. this looks like more what I need. It will stop driving if the battery voltage is too high and it will progressively cut back motor drive power as battery voltage drops until it cuts out altogether at the preset “Low Battery Voltage” setting.